Fall pruning season often starts with leaf fall. Pruning properly helps trees stay healthy, controls or directs growth, and cleans up after a wind or snowstorm. Not pruning can harm your trees long term by creating codominant leaders, and create structural issues with the trees long term habit.
How to make pruning cuts. Photo courtesy of Missouri Extension.
How To Make Pruning Cuts
First, let’s talk about the proper way to make a pruning cut. First, cut upward on the bottom of the branch to be pruned about a few inches out from the branch collar. The branch collar is the donut-shaped ring where a branch exits the trunk. Cut up about a third of the way through the branch. Then, on the top of the branch, cut about an inch or two further out from the trunk than the undercut. Finally, trim the cut to just outside the branch collar. The undercut keeps the branch from tearing away from the tree and damaging it in the process.
Controlling or Directing Growth
Trees need pruning when young so that they develop the proper shape and grow strong branches. First, remove any sprouts near the ground, often called suckers. Next, remove any fast-growing vertical sprouts from the branches. These are often called water sprouts. Next, cut any branches that are rubbing on another branch.
Finally, cut anything growing inward. These cuts should leave your tree with an open structure with branches that are strong. The open structure lets air and light into the center of the tree, helping to prevent diseases. It is best to remove no more than 25% of the tree in one pruning season.
Trees should never be topped. This way of pruning is destructive to the tree’s health and appearance. Crape myrtles are often topped. We refer to this as “crape murder.” Topping should be unnecessary if you take care to plant the right tree for a given space and prune it with intention to fit the space.
Pruning for Health
Check all the branches of the tree for disease or pest damage. Remove diseased or damaged branches to stop or slow the spread of disease. Remove branches that may fall on a structure or block a sidewalk, so they do not injure someone.
Proper pruning helps prevent storm damage.
After Storm Damage
Proper pruning helps prevent storm damage. Sometimes, however, even properly pruned trees are damaged by big storms. Removing broken branches promptly after a storm, regardless of the time of year, helps the tree heal. Broken branches can allow disease causing fungus or bacteria to enter the tree. These branches also detract from the appearance of the tree.
We Can Help
Royal Creations Architectural Landscaping has found that many people are afraid to ruin their trees by pruning the wrong way or they simply don’t have time to prune. If you enroll in our garden care subscription, we will help take care of pruning your ornamental trees and shrubs for you. If you have larger canopy shade trees that need help, we partner with several certified arborists in town to help with the bigger jobs. Call our office at (816) 825-2524 or visit our website www.RoyalCreationsKC.com to get help with your pruning needs.
Bagworms are a real threat to both evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs. They are unsightly and weaken the host plant. Bagworms attack many species of trees but prefer evergreens. They defoliate the tree they live on, damaging it or even killing it if the infestation is severe.
Description
When the caterpillar hatches, it crawls out of the bag it hatched from. Bagworms start weaving their own bag immediately. The silk is covered in plant debris and can be hard to see when the bagworms are young. Most people start to notice bagworms in August and September when they are one to two inches long.
Life Cycle
The larvae hatch in May and early June. They grow through the summer and continue to add organic matter to their bag for camouflage. In September, the bagworm attaches its bag to a twig. The bags look like Christmas tree ornaments all over the tree.
In the fall, a female bagworm is ready to mate. She has no wings or legs and is inside her protective bag. The males hatch in September and crawl into the bag and mate with the female. She lays 100-200 eggs inside the bag and dies. The eggs overwinter in the mother’s bag.
Control
The most practical method of control is to pick the bags off the tree and crush them, then throw them in the trash. Removing the bags not only kills the eggs and larvae within, but it also prevents that generation from reproducing more bagworms.
The bag around the caterpillar makes chemical control difficult. Chemicals need to be applied to the foliage, not the bag. Spraying a pesticide on the tree that the caterpillar will ingest along with the needles or leaves of the tree is the best way to kill them. The younger the caterpillar, the easier it is to kill it. By August, the bagworm is mature and is not feeding much, so chemical control is unlikely. Don’t waste your time or money on chemicals then.
Both Bacillus thuringiensis and Spinosad will control young bagworms when applied to the foliage. These pesticides are allowed in organic gardening. Products containing acephate, cyfluthrin, or permethrin are also effective chemical control agents when applied to the foliage in early summer. Wet the foliage completely with any pesticide you use, or you will not get good coverage.
We Can Help
Royal Creations Architectural Landscaping customers will be relieved to know that we can treat trees for bagworms. We have the proper equipment and know-how to safely spray every inch of your tree or shrub to kill bagworms before they defoliate your plants. To subscribe to our garden care program, call our office at (816) 825-2524 or schedule a consult.
It is almost Mother’s Day and that means it is time for seasonal color. Instead of a bouquet of flowers that quickly wilts, you can give the mom in your life a planter full of seasonal color. We can even swap out the plants in the planter up to four times a year for year-round seasonal color. Here is what you can choose from for your planters.
Just the Right Size
We have four sizes for your seasonal color planter. Small is less than 16 inches in diameter. Medium is 17-21 inches in diameter. Large is 22-27 inches in diameter. Anything over 27 inches in diameter is considered custom. You provide the planter in the size you want, and we will fill it with potting soil, fertilizer, and plants.
Pick Your Pallet
You can pick the color pallet that you like from a selection of complementary colors, monochromatic, polychromatic, or analogous colors. Our plant specialist will design a planter with the colors you choose.
Container Styles
We have five container styles for you to choose from. The Dynasty planter has a classic, symmetrical evergreen plant in the center with annuals all around it. The Renaissance planter is asymmetrical and organic looking. It has an evergreen and annuals as well. The Noble planter has a wispy grass as the centerpiece surrounded by annuals. If you want something colorful from the tropics, order the Crown Jewel planter. The Chateau planter has both mounding and cascading annual. We can also custom design a planter in a different style for an additional cost.
Specials
When you order two containers, you will receive $25 off. For three or more containers, we will give you $50 off. If you sign up for a two-season swap you will save 10% while a four-season swap will earn 15% savings. Let us know if you want to set your properties colorful planters on Auto-Pilot with our subscription programs.
Watering Your Planters
Planters will need to be watered often, especially in the summer heat. To make keeping your planters watered and healthy easy, we can help install drip irrigation from your existing sprinkler system as an additional service.
Curb appeal is how good your house looks from the sidewalk. A 2010 study showed curb appeal accounts for 7% of a home’s value. in a soft market, that amount goes up to as much as 14% of a home’s value. Increase your home’s curb appeal by following these tips.
Replace Overgrown Shrubs
Shrubs that have grown too big for the space they are in can make your home seem smaller than it is. Replace such shrubs with native and adapted shrubs that will be the correct size for the spot they are in when grown. Other than trimming out dead or diseased branches, you should not have to prune a plant to fit in a space. Native plants tend to require less water and other care than nonnative plants. Check out our favorite shrubs here.
Add Annual Color
Annual color can really make your landscape beds pop. Now is the time to add all those amazing colorful annual flowers to your yard. Adding some now means they will look nice for Mother’s Day. Keep in mind that it is a couple weeks early to be sure of a late night frost, so if they are summer heat loving annuals, there could be a chance to have to cover them but by Mother’s Day we are usually in the clear from any threats of overnight frost.
Plant Now
If you need to replace plants that are too big or just aren’t doing well, you need to do that now. In a month or so, it will begin to get hot. Transplanting a plant is hard on it. While fall is the ideal time to transplant perennials and shrubs, spring is the second-best time to do that. Roots can get established before the full heat of summer arrives, and your watering commitments will be less with the spring rains.
Refresh Mulch
Adding an inch or two of mulch around trees and shrubs and in landscape beds can make them look much neater. The mulch replaces the amount that decayed over the year and works to prevent weeds from invading your landscape beds. It also keeps the soil cooler and moist, so your plants don’t have to work so hard to survive.
Lighting
Lighting can be used to accent the positive parts of your outdoor space while hiding the less favorable features. A house that has appropriate lighting looks warm and inviting. In addition, the extra light helps with home security.
Clearing Clutter
A neat yard increases curb appeal the same way a neat inside increases how nice a home looks. Make sure hoses are neatly rolled up, mowers are in sheds, and other tools are put up. Nobody wants to dodge tools when walking around the yard.
Garden Care Your Way
Royal Creations Architectural Landscaping can help you increase your home’s curb appeal. Enroll in our garden care program and we will replace bad looking shrubs, spread pre-emergent on the landscape beds, and add mulch where it is needed. We make sure the landscape beds look their best. We can also test your lights and make suggestions for the best way to light your landscape. Just call the office at (816) 825-2524 to enroll.
Spring is a wonderful time in the garden, but it can bring some problems. Here are some of the problems we at Royal Creations Architectural Landscaping see the most and how to solve them.
Weed Infestation
Weeds start to grow in the spring just when the plants you want need the most nutrients. In addition, weeds compete for sunlight and room to spread out. Using three inches of mulch around your plants causes weed seeds to starve before they grow tall enough to get sunlight. Applying a pre-emergent on top of the mulch will prevent seeds from germinating. The few weeds that survive this double threat can be easily removed by hand.
Pest Infestation
Insects and other pests wake up about the time your plants have lots of tender new growth on them. This new growth is like a salad bar for bugs. Cleaning out any leaves or other debris early in the spring will remove a lot of these pests because that is where they overwinter. Planting plants that flower from early spring will help attract pest predators to eat the bad bugs. Spot treat any bad pest problems as soon as they become apparent to prevent their spread. Don’t routinely spray your plants unless you recognize a problem, as over-spraying insecticides can kill pollinators.
Disease Outbreaks
The spring rains and long nights are perfect conditions for fungal and bacterial diseases to thrive on your plants. The longer the leaves of a plant are wet, especially at night, the more likely the plant is to get diseases. One of the things you can do to limit moisture on the leaves of your plant is to use drip irrigation. In addition to saving tons of water, drip irrigation keeps the leaves dryer. Plant your plants far enough apart to allow air to circulate between the plants to help dry wet leaves quickly. Water in the morning before 10 a.m. to allow the plants to dry all day if some water splashes on them. Finally, if your plants get a disease, treat it promptly. Remove dead diseased plants and discard them in the trash, not the compost pile.
Overwatering or Underwatering
Spring either comes with lots of rain or not enough. It can be hard to know whether to water your plants when rainfall comes unpredictably. If you water and it rains, the plants get too much water. If you don’t water, you risk the plants getting dehydrated or dying. The best way to deal with this is to vary your watering schedule by rainfall. Install a rain sensor on your irrigation system so you don’t water in the rain. If it has been raining for a few days, pause your irrigation until it dries out some. Use mulch to retain water and allow the water into the soil slowly instead of all at once.
Soil Compaction
Wet weather increases the danger of soil compaction. Roots cannot grow well in compacted soil and water tends to run off instead of soaking in. To avoid compaction, avoid working in your garden when the soil is very wet. Raised beds help drainage so the soil doesn’t stay excessively wet for long periods of time. Mixing compost into the soil helps aerate it and helps avoid compaction.
Poor Plant Growth
Some plants may be slow to begin growing or show symptoms of nutrient deficiencies. Fertilizing in the fall before the temperature drops helps give plants enough nutrients to get through winter and begin to green up in spring. Doing a soil test once a year in the winter or early spring will tell you what nutrients to add in the spring to make sure your plants have everything they need to grow and flourish. You can get soil test instructions from your county extension agent.
Temperature Fluctuations
Spring temperatures can fluctuate wildly between beautiful days and freezing days. This is hard on plants. Mulch helps stabilize the soil temperature so it doesn’t change as much, but doesn’t do anything about air temperature changes. Be ready to use frost blankets or to bring potted plants inside when it gets cold. If you start seeds inside, be sure to gradually acclimate the seedlings to the outdoors before planting them or they will not survive. In our climate, we usually use Mother’s Day as a marker to know the threat of freeze is over for the season.
Garden Care Program Can Help
Royal Creations Architectural Landscaping has a garden care program that will do everything necessary to start your plants off well in the spring. We will remove any winter leaves and debris from the beds. In addition to topping off the mulch in your landscape beds, we will apply pre-emergent and fertilize your plants. Our care extends throughout the year to keep your plants and beds looking their best all year round. Call the office to sign up. If you have projects, schedule a consult to discuss them with our experts. Don’t wait, as our schedule fills up quickly.
Trees and shrubs are valuable members of your outdoor living space. Protect your investment by winterizing trees and shrubs to avoid winter damage.
Mulching
Mulch is always helpful, but it is especially helpful in the winter. A three-inch-deep layer of mulch helps keep the soil moist and helps stabilize the soil temperature. Don’t let the mulch touch the bark of the tree or it will cause rot issues. Leave a three-inch margin around the trunk of the tree and spread the mulch over the area under the tree’s drip line.
Watering
Trees and shrubs need water even in winter. Water them well before the first freeze and once every month or so during the winter. Proper winter watering helps trees resist winter damage.
Windbreaks
If you have trees and shrubs that are a little more fragile, consider installing a winter windbreak around them. A snow fence or burlap windbreak can reduce drying out and other winter wind-related injuries.
Anti-Desiccant Sprays
Evergreen trees continue to lose water through their needles even in the winter. They can be injured by losing too much moisture. When cold wind blows strongly, it can create a freeze-dry effect. One solution is to spray them with Wilt-Pruf, an anti-desiccant spray we use on our trees. You can read more about preventing evergreen winter burn in this article.
Wrapping
Young trees can get sunscald even in the winter. To protect their thin bark, wrap the trunk with tree wrap. The white wrap is available from nurseries and big box stores and it helps reflect the harsh light and protect the tree.
Snow Removal
Heavy loads of snow can break the branches of your trees and shrubs. After a storm, use a broom to gently shake the branches and knock the snow off of them. Be gentle, or you can break the branches. In light snows, a blower will work well for this too.
Pruning
In the fall before the first storms, prune any diseased or broken branches. This will help prevent them from falling on your house or yard. It will also help prevent the branches from causing further injury to the tree when they tear away. Not to mention your shrubs will look way better with all the dead wood gone.
Rodent Protection
In the winter, food is scarce. Rodents, including porcupines, will chew the bark for food. You can prevent this by wrapping the trunk and branches in hardware cloth. The rodent’s teeth can’t penetrate the hardware cloth to reach the bark. Rodents also hate steel wool. It hurts their teeth and prevents them from chewing.
Avoid Deicing Salts
Be careful when using deicing salts. Don’t use them where the runoff when the ice melts will carry them around your trees and shrubs. The salt will poison the trees. If you see a rim of salt on the soil, flush it away with lots of water to protect your trees and lawn. Salt dries out the plant’s root zone, and lots of water will help dilute the effects.
